A. Voge 1998 Cornas *

I'm a big fan of Voge's Cornas but Im used to drinking these wines relatively young. This 1998, which I picked up at Heights Chateau along with a funked Rayas, was the oldest of his wines I've tried, so at first I was a little worried. But my first impression after popping the cork of this wine was full and nicely complex. Deep plum color. Inviting dusty dry red fruits, a little apple and dried spice nose. The fruit's no longer young, but it's texturally crisp and firm. A little feral, with roses and mushrooms(?) too, dried lavendar and mellow cocoa. A dry clean finish.