Tuesday, February 3, 2009

2004 Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese **

From Mittelrhein, this dry German offering from Florian Weingart distributed by Skurnik (a Terry Theise selection) is the vinous equivalent of a pine colada, showing canned pineapple, coconut milk notes, but not without good underlying acidity. There is no doubt in my mind right now that I have not concentrated as hard or as much as I should on decently priced German dry and off-dry wines. I aim to correct this glaring oversight in the coming months. The 2007 vintage is, according to the International Wine Cellar, a good vintage for dry and off-dry wines, at decent prices, with many high-end auslese bottlings surpassing their even more expensive TBA siblings.

On a side note, I have learned from a source that Theise has been encouraging his winemakers to switch to screw caps, a move I wholeheartedly disagree with, even for light, aromatic white wines such as this. In fact, I purchased this particular Weingart bottling out of a number of German wines on display specifically because it was closed with a natural cork. As a consumer, I would ask that, at the very least, if winemakers are going to move to screws, they continue to offer a portion of their wines under natural, high quality cork.

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