Summer Whites: Under $30 Mosel Saar Ruwer

I promised myself I would drink more German wines this year. They give me so much pleasure, at such reasonable price points, it's somewhat strange I haven't done this sooner. I blame it on the tongue-defying regions, names, and producers from Germany -- German taxonomy makes France look simplistic.

While still only a neophyte, I found that sampling a case of these wines with friends over seven days proved to be an effective method (at least for a consumer) of picking out the best. I think I can now fairly say I know what I am looking for from these wines - a briney nose, a touch fuzzy on the palate, with the texture of ice cold oysters in the mouth and just the faintist hints of rose water, honeydue, and apricot.

All wines were purchased at retail in Manhattan and Brooklyn for under $30, most under $20, my favorites listed below in descending order of deliciousness.

2007 Joh. Jos Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Gutsabfullung) *** Sauvignon color with green tint, mildly fizzy, with brine and honey on the nose. Very light in the mouth, with honeydew and warm lard on the finish. Enjoyed this immensely. For great info on this estate, check out the Wine Doctor.

2005 Weingut Clemens Busch Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese (Gustabfullung) *** Pale hay with lemony notes. Melons predominate, honey and brine all present. The acidity is unfelt in the mouth, as is the 13% alcohol. Not at all warm - should age nicely for another five years.

2007 Stein Riesling feinherb (Mosel) ** White gold. Striking nose of apricot and honey. Oyster texture. (Drink up.)

2006 St. Ludwig Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Riesling Spatlese ** Pale gold. Bright honey on the nose. We drank this slightly warm, revealing more pronounced sweet apricot notes with a salty finish. (Maybe we've been drinking these all too cold?)

2008 Weingut Matthias Dostert "Roter Elbling" (Gutsabfullung) ** Pale pink rose, with tart strawberries and mellow apple notes on the finish. (In contrast, we drank this straight from the fridge, too chilled to reveal secondary notes.)