The Alphas

Last night I attended two wine events in NYC that left my head spinning. The first was a wine receiption at the Links Club put on by The Napa Valley Reserve, "a private club and winery." The Reserve essentially functions as a custom crush club, but one where you purchase access to vineyards tended by Harlan Estate's viticulture team and collaborate with Harlan's winemaking team to make private label wines.


The wines are, of course, first rate. The evening opened with nonvintage Krug, at the perfect temperature that cocktail receptions always seem to manage if you get there at the start. Gold color, with a wonderful balance of yellow fruits, pine nuts, a touch of grass and very nice effervescence. The 2004 NVR was very potent on the nose with considerable tannin and substance without losing much charm. Very dark, with some sweet black fruit notes, licorice, and a very mellow hint of spice - overall dense and robust. The 2002 was simply perfect. All the substance of 2004 without the fruit forwardness. Full, and fully ripe, considerable substance without sweetness. Again, blackberry notes, licorice, but here is minerality, balance, life. The 2000 was perhaps a touch more austere, with some varietal notes showing through, less concentration and charm, but still drinking nicely. Whereas the 1997, similar in substance and style to the 2002, was showing still more fruit and varietal notes, and considerable concentration without coming across as too much. I prefered the 2002 overall, and would rather drink the 1997 now. The 2000 should all be consumed soon and the 2004 in fifteen years.


The wines aside, phenomenal as they were, the reception felt awkward. One of the women I spoke to had never heard of Harlan Estate and did not know the first thing about the Reserve. One gentleman was more impressed with the hors d'oeuvres than the wines (I will admit, the food was great). The major topic of discussion was the European "banking crisis" -- Germany and Greece -- government intervention in the capital markets, and, of course, the mini-BLTs that were passed around. I was incredibly out of place.


Afterwards, I went to my club for a "reserve" wine dinner, hosted by the VP himself. This, too, was disappointing. The first wine, a 2003 Chateau Barthe, was corked. And not just one bottle. Each and every bottle they brought out -- they should have tasted these bottles before they brought them to the table. A 2000 Chateau Troplong Mondot **/*** was the sole shiner in the night. Nice shine in the glass. Very nicely concentrated on the nose, with ripe notes and red berries and considerable new oak -- mollases, caramel -- finishes with a short burst of incredible energy.


A 1982 Chateau St. Pierre, by comparison, was tired. A dull dark color, with earth, dry mushrooms and iodine on the nose, tart raspberry in the mouth, no perceptible bite or tannin, and ultimately devoid of life or charm. Similarly, the 1978 Cheval Blanc ("the white horse with velvet tannins") displayed smoke, mushrooms, and sandall wood, paired perfectly with local soft goats cheese, but was boring by itself. Unfortunately the dinner conversation revolved around investment grade Bordeaux and the rise of Hong Kong's merchant princes, the alleged failure of American wines to pair with food, and the "stunning" 2009 Bordeaux vintage.


Why not just stand at the end of the meal and sing God Save the Queen?