2000 Castello del Terriccio TASSINAIA ***

I have my good friend and esteemed colleague to thank for introducing me to Castello del Terriccio. That was just shortly before the wines became so fashionable on the East Coast. He had just returned from a trip to Italy with his family and was trying to find this wine he had tasted one night. Like most of the best wine writing, he had written it down on a bar napkin. Convinced it could not be had in New York, he asked me to find it for him. Twelve hours later, we each had half a case. And that is how I came to start drinking one of my favorite IGT Toscana red wines, Tassinaia.

The wine is distributed by Korbrand in New York, and they do an admirable job marketing it. According to their website, "The Terriccio estate is geologically divided into two distinct areas: a northern half typified by white clay soils supporting cereals crops and a southern half lying on clay and rock appropriate to vineyards, olive trees and fruit trees...The first vines were planted in 1989, and as of 2000 cover slightly over fifty acres...Tassinaia, which means "place of the stones," or may alternately indicate a badger habitat from the Italian "tasso," or badger, occupies 37.5 acres of sandy, stony soil situated on a south-southwest exposed slope."

The estate hand-harvests the grapes and winemaking is over seen by consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Tassinaia, the estate's second wine, sees about 80% second and 20% third year oak. A blend of nearly equal parts cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and sangiovese, the wine is typically deep ruby, with stone notes and mixed red berry compote. The 2000 *** is still velvety, with massive road tar, black jam, and mild dry tannins.

We also retasted a bottle of 2003 Lupicaia *** the estate's premiere wine, which hails from the finest microclimate of the massive estate: a vineyard of 12.5 acres planted 90 percent to Cabernet Sauvignon vines and ten percent to Merlot vines planted in 1989. From this abnormally hot season, the 2003 Lupicaia shows immense concentration, jammy fruit and sweet tannin. The notes of jammy tar, which I have come to expect from this estate, always reminds me of Mouton Rothschild 1989 **** A delicious wine, I found the Tassinaia more intellectually pleasing. The 2003s won't live out the decade, and should be consumed sooner rather than later.

Ridge Vineyards: Spring/Summer 2009 Update

2004 Dynamite Hill Petite Sirah *** this wine a behemoth pimp in a blue fedora. Rich, round, and condensed, with plentiful blueberry and vanilla notes (the wine saw 33% new oak). Good now and should develop some secondary spice over the next ten years. 

2005 Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel ** from 44 barrels of 96% zinfandel with 4% carignane from the same "small planting of old-vine zinfandel on the Buchignani Ranch on Dutcher Creek Road in the hills on the far western edge of the Alexander Valley appellation." I enjoyed this Buchignani more than most recent vintages: this is more sublime, more intellectual than most zin. 

The 2006 Pagani Ranch Zinfandel ** (with 7% alicante bouschet, 3% petite sirah, and 2% carignane,) is a silky young zinfandel with briar patch and strawberry notes on the mid-palate and mild black spice on the finish ("the alicante and a small amount of zinfandel co-fermented with a floating cap to better stabilize alicante's intense color"). 

2004 Oltranti Mazzoni Alexander Valley Zinfandel **/*** (88% zinfandel, 10% carignane, 2% petite sirah) from mostly young vines on this old dog vineyard, there is nice texture to the tannins and this is mid-stride now. Good notes of frozen dried strawberry and whey. 

2007 Carignane Buchignani Ranch **/*** from 49 barrels of 100% old-vine hillside grown, head-trained carignane vines aged for twelve months in air-dried American oak (10% new). This is dark ruby, with dried floral aromatics and crisp, nearly citrus notes and mildly chalky tannin. There is some Jolly Rancher cherry on the finish as well. Should improve with a year or two in bottle. 

The 2007 Jimsomare Zinfandel ***/**** is a straight 100% varietal-driven wine from Monte Bello Ridge. The inclusion of "rich" press wine with the free run is evident from the deep color. Aged for fifteen months in nearly neutral American oak, this is a concentrated wine with dark berry notes and mild spices on the finish. Perhaps my favorite of 2007 Ridge zin - this wine has kept me thinking, "Will I regret not ordering more?" 

2006 Monte Bello Chardonnay ***/**** Straw hay nearly yellow gold color, with noticeable tropical fruit notes on the head, yet not redundantly oaky, this is an athletic chardonnay that has staved off flabbiness with a certain I can't say what sex appeal. When I was drinking this I hadn't thought it was a 4 star wine, but then I realized that I had finished it off, and I have a rule about wines: If I can drink the whole bottle, it's a 4 star wine. 

 

2007 Lytton Springs * (with 22% petite sirah and 7% carignane) Ruby color with musk and mold on the nose. The funk blew off to reveal considerably hidden dark fruits, but this was a mostly disappointing wine. 

2007 York Creek *** (with 22% petite sirah) shows much more sex appeal. Vanilla and honey at first give way to overtly ripe dark fruits. This is chalky but homely and just too much fun not to share with friends, like an old joke with a new punchline. 

The 2007 Pagani Ranch Zinfandel ** (with 5% alicante bouschet and 3% petite sirah) reminded me of Robert Frost. Stern, serious, and like I don't get the joke. This was enjoyable but after the York Creek it felt like I was missing something. Go to Dartmouth; you will love this wine. But it went well enough with firm sharp cheese and biscuits. 

1987 Monte Bello (flawed) Was it Brett? TCA? Looking back at all the vintages of Monte Bello I have had and for some reason 1986 and 1987 stand out as surprisingly off years. Now that fall has arrived and we begin to retaste Monte Bello (and Burgundy) I will retry the 1985 next weekend and the 1984 which I have never tried before. These are allegedly exceptional years and should make up for 86/87.

2006 Nervo **/*** Plum color and stewed plum on the nose with chalky rich raspberry and good citric balance. This Walks The Line.